EditorialJosef Centeno serves a thickly sauced birria inspired by his grandmother Alice’s recipe, made with oxtail, beef, lamb and even tofu at Bar Amá, in Los Angeles on Jan. 30, 2021. (Rozette Rago/The New York Times)
EditorialA patty, a half-moon-shaped pastries filled with oxtail, or potatoes and peas, served at Bridgetown Roti in Los Angeles, Oct. 19, 2020. (Elizabeth Lippman/The New York Times)